A man on red ropes with curly hair that of
Black and beard of Muslim appeared not convincing to thank us for visiting the
site. He informed he were once a teacher and now solitude seeking man. He has
been there for six months and planning to move to Puna Talo next. I did not Google
about the Temple, the words of wisdom I am sharing is his oral narration to our
group on the Birth anniversary of Guru. He was Resounding.
It
was Divine Madman’s brother Ngawang Chogyel in 15th Century who started
with small temple. There are no evidences of the size of the temple; the claim
of small size we were told and we would pass onto next generation is through theoretical
understanding and orientation of small Nangteens (original small statues) of
the temple. The original Nangteens as
visible in antique forms are Tempa (Buddha), Tsepamey (Long Life), Guru, Choten
and Ngawang Chogyel (his statue most probably after he was gone).
Before
British East India Company, Bhutan glued more to the north from trade to Religious
associations. Besides the most important event of the period, an arrival of Zhabdrung
to Bhutan in 1616, the tight fastening of the central power and several wars were
fought between Tibet (Religious Sect) and Bhutan. Bjela is associated with Lama Zhabdrung- at whose
feet one summits.
How
the name of the site Bjela?
The
lama narrates that while Zhabdrung was on retreat at Nangsa Lhakhang (at Paro
Town, near vegetable market presently); the guards of the Lama overhear the
coming of Tibetan war and reached Jakarthang. Worried improvised Zhabdrung’s
guards suggested Lama to move Thimphu for the safety immediately. The lama as was
suggested en route Thimphu, the entourage halted a night at Bjela. It was at this
temple where the protecting deity of Bhutan Pal Yeshey Gonpo appears in person when he was
done with morning routine of retreat and prayers. Zhabdrung was consoled not to
worry much, the victory will be his. An appearance of Yeshey Gonpo to Zhabdrung
at the temple was ease and thus Bjela. It is said that Zhabdrung praised the
site and considered very sacred. It is also said that even if one may not be
able to have an audience with one’s own Choesung in this life time, having visited
the site, praying and seeking homage would build merits for the next life.
No
significant development or restorations occurred since inception until the 60th
Je khenpo Sherab Singye built to the present grandeur. He has installed huge Duesum
Sangay/Jo Namsum/Choegu Namsum- the Dep Sangay, Dhaata Sacha Thup and Mawong
Sangay Jampa Goenpo. One unique feature of Buddha Statue unlike at any other
temples, Bjela Dzong has Sherab Lha Phakpa Jampelyang (Wisdom) and Nying Ji Lha
Chengrigzee replacing Sangay’s Khor Sharipo and Morepo. Taba Zhabdrung’s project statue is also occupying
a beautiful seat throne.
Paintings
and other Nangteens:
Like
most of the olden temples, Bjela fortress has paintings done on flattened mud
wall and the restored paintings on cloth piece and glued. Symmetrical paintings
of Phakpai Neyten Chudru, Tempa-37 Jangchup Tungsa -to get rid of all defilements
accumulated directly or indirectly in our lives, Tsepamay Tsophu Nga –Long Life
empowerment, Nyewai Tsechi Gyee-when Tempa Namsum are gone, they will hold up to
continue propagation of dharma, and Four Direction kings.
The
paintings of Ngawang Chogyel, Genyeen, Chana Dorji, Guru, Zhabdrung and the
Yidam are also intricately mounted.
Choedhu
Chorten to the left and Namgay Chorten (get rid of Sickness) on the right are fitted
symmetry that adds up the beauty inside.
The
Bjela deity symbolically carries parallel name Drel-lha. Drel-Lha a deity
helping communicate amongst the travellers, mediate people or regions. I presume
it’s a Temple where you could remember, put on faith and pray while having
tough time connecting or discharging information sharing. Physically wrathful but
I am told Drel-Lha is Speech (Sung) reincarnate of Sangay Kuento Zangpo.
Observations:
Plastic
bottles and edible wrappers were thrown with no care. The woods were cut marked
and slim rubbers were tied on the leaves of the trees and the plants for the trekkers
to keep on route. Half way from Ta-Dzong Junction to the base, the incessant rain
ruined the uphill road and was not pliable except for 4WD. There was only one
tin waste bin along the entire route.
Solutions:
Take
care of own waste or put some effort to forage plastic waste and carry back home,
and to the agents promoting Drukpath Trek and RIGGS Phuntsholing to consider putting
on waste bins. To the trekkers not to accept plastic markings or fresh cuts on
tree trunks for the route markings but request Tour Operators to mark
their trail with chalk dust, sawdust, or colored flour, or to the least degradable
papers depending on the environment and weather. I learnt it would be wiser for all pilgrims to take few
kilos of rice or cooking oil as a offerings for the Lamas.
How
to get to Bjela Dzong:
The
smooth road ends at Paro, Ta Dzong and take uphill farm road diversion. Keep on
left and wider road until the basecamp. Some construction project is going on
at Basecamp where the road ends. The wider road is not forgiving to small cars.
4WD recommended for pouring season. It measures exactly 5.9 kilometers one way
from base to Bjela. I know only there is farm road access to Bjela from the
Tselung Nye road if one plans to shorten the travelling distance from Thimphu
side. Altitude: 3614 Meters.
