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Jumolhari Trek

History

The sacredness of faith and the physics put on the same page that it says anyone who climbed too high would be thrown down. History has it that British Army Officer Freddie Spencer Chapman submitted the mount Jumo on 21 May 1937.

The second submit was made on 24 April 1970 through the same route as Chapman’s by a joint Bhutan-India military expedition led by Colonel Narendra Kumar. This ascent was noticeable for the disappearance of three members and the placing of Sachu Bumteer on the Jumolhari submit sent by the Third King, Jigme Dorji Wangchuk. 

Sachu Bumteer is a vase containing precious objects/articles placed on a site of importance to sanctify and restore blessings. This was done to appease mountain deities.

There are several notable submit made after until Royal Government ban the climbing of Mount Jumo in the late 2000s.

How to reach?

The overall trek is not really hard as it is perceived by the mass, certain difficulties are expected.  The troubles are not limited to walking and the backpack;  food, terrain, weather, group game, time, specks of dirt from the walking horses and clothes are natural displacement that requires conscience understanding. For the ease of clients and the organizers, one day trek was made to two days easy walk one way.   

Paro-Shana village

It’s a 2 hours slow drive to Shana, the first stop of the trek from Drugyal Dzong Junction. Taxi fare is between Nu: 300-500 depending on the number of travellers’ seats.

Shana-Thangthangka (Day 1)

The longest route of the day. The trail never deviates from the gruelling sound and the sight of the river. The entire trek course is along the Paachhu river. It infuriates your muscles, tires minds and unease the travellers’ sight.

Little more than one-fourth of the day’s walking distance, it’s Shinkharab. I felt a small shop there records more sales of alcohol than the food or coffee. It’s a breather for many albeit at a higher price.

The crossing of the same river repetitive is an irrefutable norm. Horse faeces was still faeces while many claims it helps acclimatisation process on the higher altitude. The sight on both sides is either forest or mountains.

Average walkers make it to the next stop at Thangthangka in 5 hours. As usual in any other hikes, we made in record 9 hours in our pace. That has become normal to us. She agrees.

At Thangthangka 35594 masl, your hiking nerves rise to consciousness on the view of mount Jumo’s south spur. It’s a reassuring feeling for the next day’s walk.

Thangthangkacamp measures the 2 field size of football ground at around 15-20 degree gradient. It has a shop that accepts online payment and price *2. There are only limited beds, few pitch tents outside. The kitchen is spacious but has no basic amenities fixed. The restroom reads clean to me but it never will be for many hygienic OCDs. Whatever is there, still serves, people can’t criticize but move on.

The next morning, early as birds, wait for the sunrise on the white Jumo and show you the glittering yellow. The weather there on the tip is unpredictable.

Day 2

Thangthangka-Jangothang (Jumolhari Basecamp) trail is fairly easier and shorter than the previous day. Few stretch at the start, the path continues on uneven stepping rocks and the muddy water. The striding steps are a challenge for everyone, weak or robust walker. Army camps of Bhutan and India in the midway is not even a sight but solitary confinement.

¾ of the day’s walk unlike first, the path introduces you to an even pathway, better in many ways. Mountains and sights start manifesting beauty. Paulo Coelho’s “The landscape changes, so enjoy it: of course, you have to have an objective in mind – to reach the top. But as you are going up, more things can be seen, and it's no bother to stop now and again and enjoy the panorama around you. At every meter conquered, you can see a little further, so use this to discover things that you still had not noticed” starts.

The plain easier route that begins before Soe School is a breather. The gentle walk summons along the ridge; yaks, horses and the houses. The sound of the river calms down, the breeze flaunts and the BT network glows.

After 5 hours of our slow walk and rest, we are at the base of Mount Jumolhari(4100masl). The weather when we were at the base camp did not disappoint, the peak was clear, everyone got our dopamine refreshed and the photos recorded. Part of my wife’s dream was realized. We did it, she did. The next day lake Tshophu awaits.

Jangothang    

20 mins walk up along the Lingshi route from Jumolhari Basecamp is Jangothang village set at the base of Mount Jichu Drake. Two hours away from the village in between mountains is a valley of Tshophu twin Lake. Mount Jichu Drake is at the spectacle view of two archery ranges from the hamlet of around five households. The prospect of the sun on the snow-capped Jichu Drake and surrounding mountains early morning ascends the colluded mind. It’s a treat. By the village is the Pachu that flows down from the glacial lake formed by the Mount Jichu Drake along the trail giving and hosting lives.

The good that I had I felt this trip was two good nights at the organizer’s house at Jangothang. The meals though not taste expressive was sumptuous. Yaksha at the Yak’s place was of different meals. The village has a proper connection and access to electricity and washroom respectively. The area has 3G connections of both Telecom networks providers. 

The sight of people limited to the host family or few from others did not reassure life there for daily dwellers. I could be wrong, I see they got all they need except the mass we are accustomed to. I embraced the silence.

Ascending the hills on the other side of Jangothnag for half an hour, looking back, there is a majestic view of Mount Jumo range and the Jichu Drake in a frame. One hour gentle walk along the ridge, Tshophu Lake with Jichu Drake mountain in the backdrop awe inspires. The sight of rocks, blue sheep and Yaks reminded me of the great tale of Yak and the Buffalo. I yelled and passed the Buffalo's wish of not having them to worry of salt to all the Yaks on the mountains. They are remembered but not missed.

One evening, when three of my group members entered into a homophobic state, I had the most wonderful conversation with a gentleman host. We talked about how they pick up and store Yak dung, how happy and content they are. He explained how dependent they have been through generations and how thankful the family is for the Yaks. Surprisingly besides Yak being used as a pony at difficult high terrain, they also help to transport long logs that are used in building houses. The scarce of woods is another trick there. He zhooshed up the conversation bringing in Cordyceps, archery, social events and the trade with the Tibetans.

The Organizer

Our intent was made clear, we are trekking for the sight of a good Jumolhari scene and the early sunrise view. The third on the list was a slow pace day excursion to Tshophu. The consensus we were given from the promotor was candy to a child. Agreed and boom, the fire was lit. Bought, packed and walked.

The first mission was met, the other two did not happen. Missed the sunrise because of confusion in the guide’s order or communications the evening before or the morning. We had the best weather that day, woke up early. Had to run when the group showed no heed of walking down to the basecamp though an agreement was reached the evening. By the time we are at the base camp, the yellowish weakened and the white acceded the peak. Tshophu excursion was in haste, had to run again. Felt guilty for the fast walkers. The mistake wasn’t from members it was a harsh decision.

The meals and bed wasn’t a problem for me, It was good at all places for me. The Yaksha wish was granted and felt obliged.

Recommendations

The Promotor being from Jangothang is at the top of the hierarchy in the market chain. He should be the Lion King of the Mountains. He has all the advantages over other competitors. The proper roof House at the base and Yak herding spot on the mountain enroute Tshophu gives all the reasons the promotor of Jumohkari Vacation could encapsulate many experiences in the itinerary.

The pressure put on the cook during our trip was unfathomable. An appropriate ratio of guests to staff would have eased the trip. The presence of the guide wasn’t felt, no commentary, no story nor the timely physical presence. Going by the itinerary on the paid trip was one most important aspects the organizer should keep their words. A little alteration in the sequence was tolerable.

The guide plays an important character in service calibre like this. I didn’t feel the guide’s presence. Did we expect too much? I am sorry Gyem and to other members, if you felt the feeling  I and my wife didn’t feel.  

Jumolhari trekking materialized, some worthy moments and experiences were documented. My wife made it and shares the happiness in doing so. Another story of remarkable triumph. Thank you to Jumolhari Vacation and all the good friends we had in the group. You guys were amazing. 

























Zhidar Matters- The Rise and Fall of a Controversial 18th Century Bhutanese Ruler- Dorji Penjore

I have read the book over few evenings. Sir Dorji Penjor, author of the book as he does in all his writings, showed us again on the subject many have no or less knowledge but matter in ways. Zhidar Matters is my third book by Sir Dorji. From the book “Dasho Keiji Nishioka: A Japanese Who Lived for Bhutan (2011)” learnt that Nishioka revolutionalized agriculture in Zhemgang. Respectable cultivable farmland (Paddy field) villagers own today back home owes to Dasho’s utter commitment. Lo and behold a mistress of Dasho from my village helped put our farmland on the map. Not flexing, my father through Dasho got a set of farm machines that eased families and got his name Apa in the community. 
Check this: https://dorjipenjore.wordpress.com/dasho-keiji-nishioka-a-japanese-who-lived-for-bhutan/ 

Love, Courtship and Marriage in Rural Bhutan: A Preliminary Ethnography of Wamling Village in Zhemgang (2009): This book talks about the courting of suitors to marriage in Wamling village. Few of the practices revealed in the book are similar to that of most villages in upper Kheng or elsewhere.  

Here is the link: https://dorjipenjore.wordpress.com/love-courtship-and-marriage-in-rural-bhutan/ Friends who borrowed this book of mine please return lah. 

“Zhidar Matters” made the talk of the town. A free distribution that stopped suddenly and reviews did seize the interest of many. I read one-fourth online and the rest on the hardcover. The narration is so impeccable. We can relearn Duars of the south and War with the British in-depth. 

Sympathizing history hero an orphan who rose from pillar to the highest post of the land “Druk Desi” is natural. Zhidar was overthrown and denied home entry in war defeat to the British, and loss of regional powers. His life after War defeats is a mystery. The book doesn’t provide Zhidar’s complete biography, differing theories questions and activates continuity of study from other scholars. 

The British in Bhutan history starts with Zhidar and Cooh Behar. The book gives an account of how Bhutan in the region has political influences over many kingdoms then. The engagement from Bhutan with Tibet, Cooh Behar, Bengal, Nepal, British and other kingdoms is a testament to its stand today. Besides learning the history of relevance, it also provides other enticing historical figures from neighboring countries. I have an online copy of the book.
Thank you Dorji Sir.   

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