History
The sacredness
of faith and the physics put on the same page that it says anyone who climbed
too high would be thrown down. History has it that British Army Officer Freddie
Spencer Chapman submitted the mount Jumo on 21 May 1937.
The second
submit was made on 24 April 1970 through the same route as Chapman’s by a joint
Bhutan-India military expedition led by Colonel Narendra Kumar. This
ascent was noticeable for the disappearance of three members and the placing of
Sachu Bumteer on the Jumolhari submit sent by the Third King, Jigme Dorji Wangchuk.
Sachu Bumteer is
a vase containing precious objects/articles
placed on a site of importance to sanctify and restore blessings. This was done
to appease mountain deities.
There are several
notable submit made after until Royal Government ban the climbing of Mount Jumo
in the late 2000s.
How to reach?
The overall trek
is not really hard as it is perceived by the mass, certain difficulties are expected. The troubles are not limited to walking and
the backpack; food, terrain, weather,
group game, time, specks of dirt from the walking horses and clothes are
natural displacement that requires conscience understanding. For the ease of
clients and the organizers, one day trek was made to two days easy walk one way.
Paro-Shana village
It’s a 2 hours
slow drive to Shana, the first stop of the trek from Drugyal Dzong Junction.
Taxi fare is between Nu: 300-500 depending on the number of travellers’ seats.
Shana-Thangthangka (Day 1)
The longest
route of the day. The trail never deviates from the gruelling sound and the
sight of the river. The entire trek course is along the Paachhu river. It infuriates
your muscles, tires minds and unease the travellers’ sight.
Little more than
one-fourth of the day’s walking distance, it’s Shinkharab. I felt a small shop
there records more sales of alcohol than the food or coffee. It’s a breather
for many albeit at a higher price.
The crossing of the
same river repetitive is an irrefutable norm. Horse faeces was still faeces
while many claims it helps acclimatisation process on the higher altitude. The
sight on both sides is either forest or mountains.
Average walkers
make it to the next stop at Thangthangka in 5 hours. As usual in any other
hikes, we made in record 9 hours in our pace. That has become normal to us. She
agrees.
At Thangthangka
35594 masl, your hiking nerves rise to consciousness on the view of mount
Jumo’s south spur. It’s a reassuring feeling for the next day’s walk.
Thangthangkacamp
measures the 2 field size of football ground at around 15-20 degree gradient.
It has a shop that accepts online payment and price *2. There are only limited
beds, few pitch tents outside. The kitchen is spacious but has no basic amenities
fixed. The restroom reads clean to me but it never will be for many hygienic
OCDs. Whatever is there, still serves, people can’t criticize but move on.
The next
morning, early as birds, wait for the sunrise on the white Jumo and show you
the glittering yellow. The weather there on the tip is unpredictable.
Day 2
Thangthangka-Jangothang
(Jumolhari Basecamp) trail is fairly easier and shorter than the previous day.
Few stretch at the start, the path continues on uneven stepping rocks and the
muddy water. The striding steps are a challenge for everyone, weak or robust
walker. Army camps of Bhutan and India in the midway is not even a sight but
solitary confinement.
¾ of the day’s
walk unlike first, the path introduces you to an even pathway, better in many
ways. Mountains and sights start manifesting beauty. Paulo Coelho’s “The
landscape changes, so enjoy it: of course, you have to have an objective in
mind – to reach the top. But as you are going up, more things can be seen, and
it's no bother to stop now and again and enjoy the panorama around you. At
every meter conquered, you can see a little further, so use this to discover
things that you still had not noticed” starts.
The plain easier
route that begins before Soe School is a breather. The gentle walk summons
along the ridge; yaks, horses and the houses. The sound of the river calms
down, the breeze flaunts and the BT network glows.
After 5 hours of
our slow walk and rest, we are at the base of Mount Jumolhari(4100masl). The weather
when we were at the base camp did not disappoint, the peak was clear, everyone
got our dopamine refreshed and the photos recorded. Part of my wife’s dream was
realized. We did it, she did. The next day lake Tshophu awaits.
Jangothang
20 mins walk up
along the Lingshi route from Jumolhari Basecamp is Jangothang village set at
the base of Mount Jichu Drake. Two hours away from the village in between
mountains is a valley of Tshophu twin Lake. Mount Jichu Drake is at the
spectacle view of two archery ranges from the hamlet of around five households.
The prospect of the sun on the snow-capped Jichu Drake and surrounding
mountains early morning ascends the colluded mind. It’s a treat. By the village
is the Pachu that flows down from the glacial lake formed by the Mount Jichu
Drake along the trail giving and hosting lives.
The good that I
had I felt this trip was two good nights at the organizer’s house at
Jangothang. The meals though not taste expressive was sumptuous. Yaksha at the
Yak’s place was of different meals. The village has a proper connection and
access to electricity and washroom respectively. The area has 3G connections of
both Telecom networks providers.
The sight of
people limited to the host family or few from others did not reassure life
there for daily dwellers. I could be wrong, I see they got all they need except
the mass we are accustomed to. I embraced the silence.
Ascending the
hills on the other side of Jangothnag for half an hour, looking back, there is
a majestic view of Mount Jumo range and the Jichu Drake in a frame. One hour
gentle walk along the ridge, Tshophu Lake with Jichu Drake mountain in the
backdrop awe inspires. The sight of rocks, blue sheep and Yaks reminded me of
the great tale of Yak and the Buffalo. I yelled and passed the Buffalo's wish
of not having them to worry of salt to all the Yaks on the mountains. They are
remembered but not missed.
One evening,
when three of my group members entered into a homophobic state, I had the most
wonderful conversation with a gentleman host. We talked about how they pick up
and store Yak dung, how happy and content they are. He explained how dependent
they have been through generations and how thankful the family is for the Yaks.
Surprisingly besides Yak being used as a pony at difficult high terrain, they
also help to transport long logs that are used in building houses. The scarce
of woods is another trick there. He zhooshed up the conversation bringing in
Cordyceps, archery, social events and the trade with the Tibetans.
The Organizer
Our intent was made
clear, we are trekking for the sight of a good Jumolhari scene and the early
sunrise view. The third on the list was a slow pace day excursion to Tshophu.
The consensus we were given from the promotor was candy to a child. Agreed and
boom, the fire was lit. Bought, packed and walked.
The first
mission was met, the other two did not happen. Missed the sunrise because of
confusion in the guide’s order or communications the evening before or the
morning. We had the best weather that day, woke up early. Had to run when the
group showed no heed of walking down to the basecamp though an agreement was
reached the evening. By the time we are at the base camp, the yellowish
weakened and the white acceded the peak. Tshophu excursion was in haste, had to
run again. Felt guilty for the fast walkers. The mistake wasn’t from members it
was a harsh decision.
The meals and
bed wasn’t a problem for me, It was good at all places for me. The Yaksha wish
was granted and felt obliged.
Recommendations
The
Promotor being from Jangothang is at the top of the hierarchy in the market
chain. He should be the Lion King of the Mountains. He has all the advantages
over other competitors. The proper roof House at the base and Yak herding spot
on the mountain enroute Tshophu gives all the reasons the promotor of Jumohkari
Vacation could encapsulate many experiences in the itinerary.
The
pressure put on the cook during our trip was unfathomable. An appropriate ratio
of guests to staff would have eased the trip. The presence of the guide wasn’t
felt, no commentary, no story nor the timely physical presence. Going by the itinerary
on the paid trip was one most important aspects the organizer should keep their
words. A little alteration in the sequence was tolerable.
The
guide plays an important character in service calibre like this. I didn’t feel
the guide’s presence. Did we expect too much? I am sorry Gyem and to other
members, if you felt the feeling I and
my wife didn’t feel.
Jumolhari
trekking materialized, some worthy moments and experiences were documented. My
wife made it and shares the happiness in doing so. Another story of remarkable triumph.
Thank you to Jumolhari Vacation and all the good friends we had in the group. You
guys were amazing.
